No.23 Empty Essex

Route change (20 May 2015)

Unfortunately, due to the owners of Middle Wick farm denying access on the road through their land (see comments below for an explanation of the situation), I have had to re-route the first few miles of the ride, between Southminster and Tillingham. So instead of heading east from the start at Southminster it goes north to Asheldham, then turning right onto Hall Road and rejoining the original route just before Tillingham. I have updated the maps below and the GPX file and the turn-by-turn directions.

Route advisory (26 September 2015)

It appears that the coast path from St Peter’s Chapel via Sales Point to Bradwell Waterside can become very overgrown, though it appears to have improved somewhat (see Clarissa’s comment below). It may well be a seasonal thing, with the route becoming overgrown in the late spring and early summer before it is cut back / dies back for autumn and winter. If you prefer not to risk it, the from the chapel, head back the way you came along the lane to Bradwell-on-Sea and turn right for Bradwell Waterside. For the swimming beaches, turn right at the quay and follow the coast path.

Map (zoom in for more detail)

Download file for GPS

Directions and GPX

Route directions PDF (right click to download)

GPX file (right click to download)

How to navigate using a GPX file on tablet or smartphone.

28 thoughts on “No.23 Empty Essex”

  1. Hi there. I’m probably being dense, as this is the first time I’ve tried downloading a gpx file, but I wonder if the link from this page is broken; accessing it from my iphone, whenever I tap on the link it just throws me back to the phone’s home page … Cyclemeter and Viewranger are installed but nothing appears to kick them into life to import the route. Any clues? Cheers!

    1. We did this ride on a beautiful July day and decided to risk the coastal path as we hoped to swim. It is no longer too overgrown though is rough and slow. After the chapel take the upper (shale) path on the dyke until it peters out, then the track inside the dyke (losing the view of the sea) until that does get overgrown when there’s a cycleable footpath on top of the dyke again.
      A lovely route by the sea and the swim made it well worth it.
      (We were also foxed by the left/right mix-up in Southminster on the return route and the ‘Burnham Road’ sign has been removed)

  2. Simon Herbert

    Hi there. Tried this route out on Monday. Was ACE! Thanks for opening up to me an area that’s a stone’s throw from where I grew up, yet hadn’t explored.

    A few thoughts: In the pdf turn-by-turn guide, the route through Southminster on the way to Burnham says Left at the church then Right into Burnham Rd … It’s actually the other way around. The other things are just circumstantial, I guess: the sea wall at Burnham has grown over massively so it’s not really passable by bike for about 80% of its length … I opted to cycle on the flat grass to landward and nip up for a peek at the estuary every now & then. Might be a good hint for ppl as well to suggest they avoid the Asheldham to Burnham stretch between about 16:30 and 18:00 on a weekday: it was pretty busy with fast-moving traffic.

    1. Thanks Simon for spotting that error in the route sheet – I’ll correct it and upload a new version.

  3. Great ride! Did it yesterday in glorious sunshine. Though a very windy…can see why there’s so many wind farms popping up all over the place. Thanks.

  4. Hi Jack. To second what Simon said above, the sea wall between the chapel and the power station was pretty overgrown when I did the route in the middle of June. I tried to tackle it on a road bike and it proved pretty challenging. Otherwise, a stunning route, especially between Southminster and Tillingham. Thanks very much! Andrew

    1. Hi Andrew
      Sorry to hear about that. When I’ve ridden it I’ve done as you, a bit of sea wall and a bit down on the lower level (away from the wind!). It feels a bit like a giant grass velodrome, with huge, steep banking.
      Jack

  5. John & Julie Moore

    A lovely route, and very flat! We particularly enjoyed stopping off at The Fox & Hounds in Tillingham, which served some lovely sandwiches for lunch. One minor comment regarding the route at 3.6 miles – the road was clearly marked as a Private Road, and a security barrier had been installed at the entrance to Middlewick Farm approach, so we felt slightly uneasy as we cycled around, but nobody challenged us, so perhaps they’re sympathetic towards cyclists…Agree with previous contributors regarding the coastal section to Bradwell, which was pretty tough going in places, as the grass tracks were overgrown. Other than that, a very enjoyable route.

  6. Hi Jack. Further to the comment from John and Julie above, we cycled this route on the weekend, but the private road to Middlewick Farm which is mentioned has now been virtually barricaded, with a fence and remote gate system installed blocking off all access any further. This new gating isn’t shown on Google street maps, so must have been installed relatively recently. We therefore had to retrace our tracks and take the busier road along to Tillingham. Very disappointing, as it was a very nice section of road which has now been spoilt by this ‘private road’ closure. I question whether this is legal on what used to apparently be a public road.

    1. Hi Richard
      I’m really sorry about this. Such a shame for the route, and I’m sorry you had to add extra miles to your ride. I’ve amended the map and GPX file above and added a note alerting people to the change. I’ll update the turn-by-turn directions when I get a moment.
      Jack

      1. Hello Jack.
        After making a small enquiry into the blocking of the road I was contacted by Essex highways and informed that they do unfortunately have the right to block the access through.
        However, interestingly, it was inferred that an application for the road to be reopened through to Middlewick Farm could be made if it were stated that 5 or more people over the last 20 years have used the route regularly. It could be that this might be the forum to collect the candidates…

  7. Hi.
    We plan to do this route soon. Am curious to know if the private road was ever reopened.
    Love the book by the way and am enjoying working my way through.
    Gill

  8. Hello from the future! My girlfriend and I rode this route today (July 2016) and very much enjoyed ourselves.

    A few updates from the published info and comments: the route through Middlewick Farm is definitely closed off to bicycles and the diversion through Southminster is required. This didn’t seem to be reflected in the GPX file (downloaded this morning) but we found our way back to the route easily enough. The path from St Peter’s Chapel to Bradwell Waterside, it should be noted, is a choice for the most part of either a narrow stony track on the top of the embankment or a now really quite rutted and grassy vehicle/animal track on the inland side. Road bike riders will really struggle and even my girlfriend’s adventure bike found the going tough at times. As you near Bradwell Waterside the inland option disappears and you are required to ride along the top which is quite precipitous in places and subject to blustery side-winds, so caution is advised. Your pace along this path will be hugely reduced and it does run for a few miles so worth considering the short-cut noted above if you don’t fancy the long haul.

    We’re happy to report that the Cap and Feathers in Tillingham is still doing an excellent trade in hot lunches and a decent few ales. Also worth pointing out that the route passes very close again to Southminster station on the way back so if you’re running short of time this makes a great early finish. Thanks for the excellent guide; looking forward to the next one!

  9. George Coulouris

    Given the fairly poor rail connections to Burnham and Southminster I was prompted to work out a variant starting from Hatfield Peveril and finishing up at Southminster: http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=lmkdcyokxuwwqyxi

    It worked out very well. The visit to St Peter’s Chapel was absolutely worth the effort. The photos in the book of the sandy (?) beach look enticing but we didn’t fancy tackling the coast path between Bradwell waterside and the chapel. So we managed a swim on the small shingle beach at St Lawrence instead.

    Another Lost Lanes-based great day out!

  10. Just a note to say that in summer 2018, the track around the coastal path has been nicely cut back and is very rideable. Obviously don’t take your super lightweight racing steed, but any other bike will be fine. I rode all the way around along the top of the bank.

  11. Hi all, after much slacking my wife and I finally tried one of your rides last weekend and chose this one. What a fantastic ride! We didn’t hit Southminster until 5 and was very wary thinking this was all going to be a desperate slog that we should have planned better. Couldn’t have been more wrong! Great weather (we’re slap bang in the middle of the hottest June/July for years). We dawdled along, took a dip at Bradwell, and finished off with beer and chips at Burnham. Didn’t make it home til midnight (by train) but didn’t matter, can’t wait ’til the next one!.

    FYI Definitely spend the cash if you can and get a GPS for your bike or at least lots of power packs for your smart phone. Stopping to map read is massively overrated! Ours is a MioCyclo and seems to work fine!

  12. Great ride which we completed on 18th May 2019 on a nice warm dry day. Just a couple of points that may be helpful. At the start of the ride from Southminster when you turn left off the road and go up the farm track the top of this is private land. I spoke to the farmer who was very nice and he explained it was for safety reasons due to movement of farm machinery. So after going round the first gate continue up the track and when the hedge on the left ends turn left and follow the edge of the field to the end then turn right and take the diagonal path across the fields to come out at the top of the farm and back on the route. This is a marked footpath on the map. If you want somewhere to stop for lunch and a drink don’t use the Kings Head at Bradwell as the chef was extremely rude telling us we would have a long wait for our lunch as he was busy. When we asked how long was it likely to be he said “How long is a piece of string!”
    Asked for our money back and left. Just up the road is the Cricketers which has a lovely warm welcome and did a fantastic pint and a mixed platter of sandwiches. Highly recommended.
    The ride around the coast is currently dry and a bit bumpy but not overgrown.
    Well worth a visit is the Wibblers brewery and tap room in Southminster for a perfect pint. I met the owner of Middle Wick Farm and had a chat about “Cyclers” (her word not mine) riding through her farm and being very rude.
    Overall a great ride and day out.

  13. Just rode this route today (12 June 21). Really nice ride, got confused by the gate blocking the bridleway in the first track after leaving Southminster. Chanced it going underneath after much umming and ahhing. Nobody seem bothered as we rode through the farm yard, but probably better to follow the path as described above. Another thumbs up for the cricketer’s pub, super nice folks and great tuna melt. The path following the coast wasn’t too overgrown, rideable but a bit slow, gf managed just fine on skinny 25mm tyres.

  14. Rode this on June 26th 2021.

    Really great ride – perfect weather and nice people to chat to along the coastal path. The first part of that path was pretty overgrown and we got a few nettle stings and thistles along the legs but it’s also really short. You can drop down to the beach if you fancy skipping most of it. The whole thing was rideable on a road bike with 25mm tyres.

  15. Completed this on Sunday and loved it from start to finish. Was extremely quiet with minimal cars all day.

    The coastal path part wasn’t too overgrown and was fine on a hybrid bike. Stunning views too. Thank you!

  16. Hi, I used the gpx at the weekend and was told off politely by Thorogood asparagus farm (the reroute instead of Marsh farm?) for using the private lane that is no access. (We had needed to pass under a gate). They do have great asparagus for sale though

  17. Rode this today, quite cold but no real wind which made it a bit better. I was hoping for quieter roads at this time of year, and since I was driving to the start I started and ended in Burnham-on-Crouch but to be honest, everything south of Asheldham wasn’t really lost, it was more busy B road. Once I got further north it was all very nice, the path along the sea wall was clear (November of course) but I was quite glad of my front forks as very bumpy! If I was going to do it again I’d probably start and end in Southminster and try and extend the ride a little further north where it’s quieter.
    Able to make good time on most of the route due to decent B or unclassed paved roads, although the usual potholes to watch out for. The only slow section was on top of the sea wall, the grass and rough ride probably slowed me down to around 12km/h or so.

    Quite a few places to stop, as mentioned above, but none seemed to have good provision for cyclists, nowhere to lock up your bike. I eventually stopped at the Wibblers brewery and just padlocked the bike even though there was nowhere to lock it to. Being a Sunday, everywhere was booked solid and offering the traditional roasts too, but Wibblers managed to squeeze me in!

  18. Did this Sunday 24 2025. Lovely route as the traffic was minimal to non-existant. Some great countryside side and sea views.
    The sea wall area was only overgrown at the very start but was quite bumpy and narrow. Not a problem for me as I was on a mountain bike. Encountered quite a few leisurely walkers who helpfully let us pass.
    Had Sunday lunch at the The Green Man Inn at Bradwell Waterside. Roast Pork, potatoes etc was passable, seemed to get cold quickly. Probably just heated up in a microwave before serving.
    Finished with a coffee at a Burnham on Crouch. Most busy part of the ride.

  19. I took this ride alone mid-August. I very much enjoyed it but that ride on the sea wall was a real challenge on a road bike with thin tyres. The track is very narrow and rutted and I really had to concentrate. Visiting the church made it very worthwhile.

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